Three women surfers carry their boards on Venice Beach California

Weekend Away – Venice Beach

L.A., CALIFORNIA

L.A.’s iconic beach town has an eclectic vibe and lots of “Socal” food, sun and fun

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Venice, California is a beach town like no other. It offers a vibrant mix: incredible mural art and a boardwalk with kitschy souvenirs, gorgeous cuisine and unexpected canals in a neighbourhood of charming houses.  And all of it is set next to miles of golden sand and ocean. Venice encapsulates much of what is appealing about Southern California.

My son Charles goes to college at Loyola Marymount University in Los Angeles, just a few minutes from Venice (technically a suburb in west L.A.) so I’ve had the chance to get to know this area in the last few years. One of the things I love, is that in a city known for nightmarish traffic, there is so much to do within a walk or a bike ride. No car required.

I just returned from my fourth trip and thought it was time to share all that I love about this popular part of L.A. nd 

Venice Beach Sign with surfers beyond

Venice Beach Map

This Venice Beach Map & Guide is designed to give you an overview, and specific ideas for several fun-filled and delicious days. Broader Los Angeles obviously offers endless options which I am not covering here. I do highly recommend a visit to the Getty Museum. The art is wonderful and the building and hilltop setting are stunning. I also like the Griffith Observatory, and if you are with kids or teens, Universal Studios is great fun.  

Dining in Venice, California

I’m going to start with food because I love to eat and it’s such a pleasure in California. Venice has enough exceptional dining options to keep you happy for weeks. It’s creative, fresh and represents many cultures. (COVID note: As of March 2021, all of the restaurants I’ve listed are open and most offer outdoor dining. This could change, so confirm ahead.)

Gjelina's (California cuisine)

Gjelina’s is one of my favourite restaurants – anywhere. I love the menu; meat is available but is not the star of the show. The vegetable and grain dishes are original and exciting (I loved the romanesco, an edible flower related to broccoli) and the pizza will transport you to a piazza in Naples. This fabulous dining experience is made even better if it’s warm enough to sit in the charming back garden.

If you have room for desert order the chocolate pistachio tart (I tried it on my visit last week). Or better yet, go to Salt and Straw down the street for exceptional ice cream. Note: If you can’t get a reservation at Gjelina, you can go to Gjelina’s Takeaway (GTA) next door and get pizza to go. 

Gjelina garden patio in Venice California
The back garden at Gjelina, especially charming at night
A little blurry but a fabulous dinner at Zinqué. I am with my mother-in-law and two sons.

Zinqué (French small plates)

The best way I can describe Zinqué is French bistro food with a California twist with a small plate concept. The Tartines are made with Poilâne bread flown in from Paris.  It’s also a nice place to go for a cocktail because they have a nice selection of smaller bites. The California influence is in a nice array of lighter fare such as salads and bowls, so there’s something for everyone. Also open for brunch and lunch.  Zinqué now has five locations in L.A., so you can try it regardless of where you are staying. 

Felix Trattoria (Upscale Italian)

“Felix” is Latin for lucky which is ironic as I’ve been unlucky thus far as far as getting a reservation. To be fair, I’ve tried at the last minute.  I hope to try Felix on my next trip to L.A. and am already dreaming of the carb splurge that will ensue. Pasta or Pizza? I may have to try both.  

The patio at Butcher's Daughter restaurant in Venice California

The Butcher’s Daughter (plant-based /vegetarian)

The Butcher’s Daughter is a celeb favourite –  you just may spot Jessica Alba or Gwyneth Paltrow. The surfer’s burrito was just what I needed after a morning of… walking around the Venice canals and taking photos of the pretty gardens. The juices are wonderful as well. 

Great White Rotisseria (picnic food)

The Great White Rotisseria would be nice to take out for a picnic lunch or dinner at the beach. The rotisserie chicken is slow roasted and juicy, available with various sauces. The french fries are well above average as well. (I tried them for you all.)  And I loved the interesting sides such as whipped beet root and baba ganoush. It made choosing very difficult. 

A bike is parked in front of Rotisseria in Venice California
Picking up a picnic lunch at Rotisseria
Eggslut breakfast at Venice Beach

Breakfast - Eggslut

I was debating what to get at Eggslut, the cult favourite breakfast spot. Luckily a woman waiting in line set me straight. All first timers should try the slut she said, a coddled egg on top of potato purée, poached in a glass jar and topped with chives. I ate my breakfast at the beach and watched the surfers; those 30 minutes were pretty close to perfect. If you want something more hearty, the Fairfax sandwich is popular.

Intelligenstsia coffee shop in Venice California
A hand holds a cup of blue bottle coffee in Venice California

Coffee

So. Much. Great. Coffee. Around the corner from the Hotel Erwin and just a block from the beach is Menetti’s. They also have great pastries. A couple of blocks apart on Abbott Kinney are two of the avant-garde of premium coffee: Intelligentsia (Chicago) and Blue Bottle (L.A.)  

Cha Cha Matcha Tea in Venice California
Street Art along Abbot Kinney

Matcha Tea - Cha Cha Matcha

Matcha, a caffeinated Japanese green tea powder is supposed to provide hours of clear-headed energy with a dose of antioxidants. Who doesn’t need more of that in their life?  So I visited Cha Cha Matcha and tried the turmeric and ginger with coconut milk. Yes, I loved it so matcha. There are several non-dairy milk options so dream up any combination and they are happy to oblige. There are other drinks as well, such as fresh-squeezed lemonade. Whatever you choose, you can enjoy it while you walk around Venice to see all the neat street art and murals. 

Entrance to Salt and Straw ice cream shop, Venice, California

Ice Cream - Salt & Straw

Salt & Straw, possibly the best ice cream in L.A. originated in Portland, Oregon. It’s worth the wait in a line which sometimes extends out onto Abbott Kinney. Don’t let that scare you away. It moves quickly and you’ll need the time to decide, anyway. Salted malted chocolate chip cookie cough is a fan favourite. I loved the honey lavender. 

What to See & Do in Venice, California

Historic Venice California Canals

Historic Venice Canals

If you didn’t know the Venice Canals were here, it would be easy to miss them. The grid of six canals are tucked away a few blocks from the beach: four run east-west and two larger canals run north-south. These man-made wetland canals were created by Abbot Kinney in 1905 when he was developing this area. he even brought gondolas in from Venice, Italy, apparently.  With the advent of cars, travel by boat lost its luster and by 1940 the canals had fallen into disrepair. It wasn’t until 1992 that they were rebuilt, and sidewalks added. The addition of sidewalks enables anyone to walk amongst the canals and admire the eclectic houses and gardens. It’s one of my favourite things to do here. 

Santa Monica Pier California
The Santa Monica pier is a short ride away from Venice

Ride the 22-mile Strand Bike Path

The Strand Bike Path extends 22 miles along the coast, between Will Rogers State Beach in the north and Torrance State Beach in the south – Venice Beach is about halfway in between. (Note that the path winds inland around Marina del Rey, a few miles from Venice). I haven’t made it all the way to either end but really enjoyed the shorter rides I’ve taken. Some hotels have free bikes and helmets available, including the Hotel Erwin. Otherwise bike rentals are everywhere. Segways are another option and available to rent. 

A Touch of Venice Mural in Venice California

Venice Beach Boardwalk

You’ll see it all along the mile-and-a-half-mile pedestrian promenade that runs parallel with the beach: fortune-tellers, street performers, souvenir and tattoo shops and interesting restaurants. It’s fascinating people watching and there’s street art to see as well. 

Mural & Street Art Tour

The epic Venice Street Art deserves a guide who can tell you all about it and the talented artists who created it. Venice Street Art Tours operates 2-hour tours most days of the year. If you post photos of the art on social media, remember to tag the artists when they’ve left their social on their work.

A skateboarder does a trick at the skate park Venice Beach California

Venice Recreation Park & Beach

Surfing, volleyball, basketball, paddle tennis, roller blading, windsurfing & sailing: it’s all available at Venice Beach. Many of these activities are found at the Venice Beach Recreation area with its paddle tennis courts, volleyball and basketball courts. Some hotels have equipment to borrow. Otherwise rentals are available. Find out more at the L.A. Parks website. I think they rent the paddle tennis racquets for example. 

Stop by the 27,000 square foot outdoor skate park for incredible entertainment by the skateboarders who perform impressive tricks. You can also workout at the famous Muscle Beach, a stretch of sand with an outdoor gym. Get a day pass for $10.

For water activities such as surfing and sailing there are many outfitters. Ask your hotel for a suggestion or check out Tripadvisor for reviews. 

Susan Heinrich sits on a balcony at the Hotel Erwin Venice, California

Where to Stay - Hotels in Venice

 There are actually surprisingly few hotels right in Venice Beach so I am including hotel options in nearby Marina del Ray. In the other direction, there are many wonderful hotels in Santa Monica. I would love to splurge on a stay at The Viceroy sometime. 

Hotel Erwin in Venice California

Hotel Erwin (a classic beach hotel)

The Hotel Erwin is a beach hotel from the 1970’s that’s been given a significant update, The rooms are lovely, it has a fun vibe and some very nice amenities. There’s no pool but it’s next to the Venice boardwalk, with the beach just beyond. Many rooms have ocean views, and a rooftop patio is a perfect place to enjoy a cocktail and watch the sun set over the Pacific. (Guests are prioritized for rooftop reservations). 

I stayed here on my most recent trip and booked an Epic View King Room which has a balcony with a table and chairs and an ocean view. There are less expensive city view rooms and spacious suites with kitchens and living areas. They offer complimentary cruiser bicycles and helmets. If you are happy to spend time at the beach, rather than a pool, this is perfect. 

An overhead view of boats in Marina del Rey California

Marina del Rey Marriott (family friendly)

I stayed at Marina del Rey Marriott with my kids and my in-laws. It’s comfortable and has a nice bar and a small pool. It’s not fancy, but nice enough and does the job. You can easily walk to the canals from here, while the Venice Beach boardwalk and Abbot Kinney restaurants are each about a mile away.

If you want luxurious accommodations with lots of amenities the Ritz-Carlton Marina del Rey may be ideal. Waterfront dining next to the sprawling marina, a spa and a pretty saltwater pool. There’s also basketball and tennis – enough to keep everyone happy. I haven’t stayed here but I’ve stayed at other Ritz locations.  They are consistently lovely with great service.  

Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice California

Shopping in Venice

Abbot Kinney Boulevard is pleasantly absent the big name retailers, although there is an Adidas store. Instead you’ll find charming boutiques with a coastal vibe and an assortment of curated items. The Piece Collective and Urbanic are worth a visit.

You’ll also find many brands with a mission to do good such as Cuyana, Toms and AllBirds, my new favorite shoes for travel days.  And in case your  sunglasses need an adjustment there’s also a Warby Parker on Abbot Kinney. (If you haven’t been to Warby Parker, check it out. I had no idea glasses and prescription sunglasses could be so affordable.) Gorjana is popular for pretty and affordable jewelry and Saje Wellness sells natural remedies and skin care. 

There are also art galleries scattered around the neighbourhood. 

I hope you have lots of delicious fun in Venice, California!  If your trip to L.A. is part of a larger trip in the U.S. West, you might like to read: An Unexpected Road Trip Denver to Los Angeles. 

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About - Midlife Globetrotter

Hey there,

I’m glad you’re here. Can we talk about midlife? I reached my late 40’s, realized my kids were growing up, and adventure began calling in a new way: big travel adventures as well as everyday ones. I want Midlife Globetrotter to be a place where we explore how to add a sense of fun, freedom and meaning to these precious years. Let’s celebrate how far we’ve come, and all that’s ahead.

Susan

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